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Creativity, Authenticity, and Cultural Mediation: Ethnography of China-Africa Fashion Trade and Cons
Based at the Amsterdam School for Cultural Analysis (ASCA) / Media Studies Department, the University of Amsterdam (UvA), this 3rd Postdoctoral Researcher will conduct immersive ethnography in Guangzhou’s fashion hubs (and beyond) and design digital strategies that make China–Africa fashion supply chains more sustainable.
Sep 13


Fashioning Authenticity: Counterfeits, Culture and Consumer Desire
Written by CAFP Postdoctoral Researcher Dr. Johanna von Pezold In Maputo’s markets, Gucci sneakers, Louis Vuitton bags, and Nike T-shirts...
Aug 30


The Hidden Hierarchy of Counterfeit Fashion
Why do people across class lines choose knockoffs? And what does that say about what we value—creativity, originality, or simply good design and decent quality?
Jul 13


Ten Years of Fieldwork in Guangzhou
Written by Postdoctoral Researche r Dr. Jupiter Wang I started to do fieldwork in Guangzhou 10 years ago, in 2015. People call it “the...
Jun 26


Yiwu: First Ethnographic Impressions
Written by PhD Researcher Fairuzah Munaaya Atchulo Smaller, quieter, slower. These were my first impressions landing at the Yiwu airport...
Jun 24


Second-hand clothes without any of the inconvenience!
Written by PhD Researcher Fairuzah Munaaya Atchulo A black speaker sits at the entrance to the ADPP store, blaring a female voice...
May 25


*The Joy of Brandedness*
Written by Dr. Johanna von Pezold In April 2021, I bought this handbag from a Chinese store in Maputo for 400 Mozambican Meticais (about...
Apr 5


*Continuity and Rupture*, Yiwu Wholesale Market
Written by Postdoctoral Researcher Dr. Jupiter Wang 9am in the morning is still too early for the Yiwu International Business & Trade...
Dec 7, 2024


Nairobi, Kenya, 2024
A Matatu, the long musical coach, is taking us to Kibera, the largest slum in Africa. We are now at the Lookslike Avido Fashion Studio. A...
Oct 8, 2024


*Grandma’s fashion*
Written by Principal Investigator Dr Tommy Tse Photography by PJ After spending weeks in Sanyuanli and Xiaobei, J came up with an idea of...
Sep 8, 2024


*The cleat curtains*
Written by PhD Researcher Fairuzah Munaaya Atchulo Photography: Dilayla Romeo In Compone market, the mantra is shoes, shoes, shoes! What...
Sep 4, 2024


*Smell, touch and feel* Sanyuanli, Guangdong, China
Written by Principal Investigator Dr. Tommy Tse Photography by 瑩菲 Faye Coming back to Guangzhou this summer brings a whole new...
Jul 28, 2024


*From Guangdong to Maputo: The Rise of Shein in Mozambique*
Written by Postdoctoral Researcher Dr. Johanna von Pezold Photography by Dilayla Romeo & Dr. Johanna von Pezold Revisiting my favourite...
Jul 21, 2024


*Searching for 2Pac*, Guangda Fabric Market (广大布匹市场)
Written by Postdoctoral Researcher Dr. Jupiter Wang Photos by PJ/@smilejerry01 Tang, a businessman in Guangzhou who has run a clothing...
Jul 20, 2024


*Second-hand clothes as culture?*
Written by PhD Researcher Fairuzah Munaaya Atchulo Photography by Dilayla Romeo “I love TikTok! I love TikTok!” A young man, standing...
Jun 28, 2024


*I, as a fashion consumer, am powerful because……*
It is a pure joy just to look at these Kenyan women’s unique hair and clothing styles. Their sharing during the focus group interviews...
Dec 3, 2023


*Smelling Authentic*, Gikomba Market
It’s my third time being in the #GikombaMarket – the largest secondhand clothing & accessory marketplace in East Africa that offers an...
Dec 2, 2023


*I am BLACK BEAUTY!* Dubois Beauty, Nairobi
Walking down the Dubois Street - the largest wig & beauty products market in Kenya, we arrive at Tabi’s 3-year-old wig store. Here, we...
Nov 27, 2023


A different throw-away society? Kasarani, Nairobi
“Do you think sustainability and eco-friendliness shape your conception of fashionability?” I ask. After careful consideration, Dan...
Nov 22, 2023


*Workshop Study - Made in China, or Africa?* Eastleigh, Nairobi
Eastleigh, full of Somalian tailors and sellers, is another major market in Nairobi mainly selling (wholesaling) fabrics, clothing and...
Nov 19, 2023
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