Fashioning Authenticity: Counterfeits, Culture and Consumer Desire

Written by CAFP Postdoctoral Researcher Dr. Johanna von Pezold

In Maputo’s markets, Gucci sneakers, Louis Vuitton bags, and Nike T-shirts are everywhere. But almost none are ‘authentic’, at least not in the western sense. They are Chinese-made replicas.

For most Mozambicans, that’s not a problem. Originals are too rare, too expensive, too far away. Replicas make fashion accessible. As one local trader said, knock-offs ‘nourish the heart’, they bring happiness, pride, and style.

Here, authenticity is measured differently. A ‘fake’ is not about the logo. It’s about poor quality. If the bag breaks quickly, it’s fake. If it’s sturdy and stylish, it’s ‘original,’ even if it’s copied.

Counterfeits are more than cheap copies. They are social goods. They let people take part in global fashion systems that usually exclude them. Mozambican traders even say they ‘take care’ of poorer clients by offering affordable style.

In this world, the line between real and fake blurs. What matters is how clothes look, feel, and what they mean to the wearer. Counterfeits become culture. Desire becomes dignity. And fashion becomes a moral act.

Photos taken in Baixa, Maputo, 2024.

Photographer: Dilayla Romeo