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CAFP investigates how, in the context of the Belt and Road Initiative, China’s global power is manifested, negotiated, and resisted in people’s daily life in a South-South setting using fashion as an exemplary case.

 

This project will theorise how fashion is created, circulated, valuated, and consumed in and through Global Souths Value Chains (Guangdong-Nairobi-Maputo), dissecting complex dynamics and expressions of power.

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Picture from Gikomba Market, Nairobi, 2023. Photography by Paul Cox.

  RESEARCH OBJECTIVES  

The surge of China’s global power has caught the interest of the general public, policymakers and scholars alike, often focalized in discussions about the Belt and Road Initiative (BRI) – the Chinese government’s ambitious global development strategy.

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  SOCIAL IMPACT  

By the full-length research of the GSVC, the China Fashion Power project aims to positively impact economic and cultural development as well as the natural environment in the Global South.

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Picture from Gikomba Market. Photography by Paul Cox.

  • Thinking Through Fashion Book Launch
    Thinking Through Fashion Book Launch
    Fri 14 Nov
    In-person location to be confirmed
    14 Nov 2025, 15:00 – 16:30 CET
    In-person location to be confirmed
    We are pleased to announce an upcoming book launch event for the second edition of Thinking Through Fashion: A Guide to Key Theorists, edited by Agnès Rocamora and Anneke Smelik. This hybrid event will be held on 14 November 2025 from 3–4:30 PM (CEST).
  • Histories and Materialities of Second-Hand Clothes
    Histories and Materialities of Second-Hand Clothes
    Fri 21 Nov
    University of Amsterdam, Room 0.16, BG1
    21 Nov 2025, 15:00 – 16:30 CET
    University of Amsterdam, Room 0.16, BG1, Turfdraagsterpad 9, 1012 XT Amsterdam, Netherlands
    The ASCA Global Africa Reading group is delighted to announce "Histories and Materialities of Second-Hand Clothes." This event will be held on Friday 21 November 2025 (3:00-4:30pm CEST) in BGI 0.16 (In Person) and online (via Zoom). Speaker: Mwangi Mwaura (University of Oxford) & Jiaying Tu (UvA)
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CAFP’s major contribution is threefold. Theoretically, it will move beyond a Western-centric epistemology to map the chains, restraints and materialities of China’s power expansion through fashion. Methodologically, this project will synergistically collect and triangulate empirical information along complete South-South commodity chains.

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